Sailing by

We come to the North Norfolk coast a lot, for the very good reasons that it’s beautiful, peaceful and within 75 minutes’ drive of where we live. But yesterday morning, bending down to pick up my walking boots prior to setting off, I pulled a muscle in my back and wound up hobbling around with a walking stick. It happens occasionally — often when packing to go on holiday (so I ought to be alert to it by now) — so I just take painkillers, keep moving and wait for it to go away. Which it usually does in about three days.

What it meant, though, was that the long walk we had planned from Burnham Overy Staithe out to the sea wasn’t feasible. But we went there anyway and parked on the Staithe, thinking that we could always read the newspapers and take the air. In the event, I read nothing, but spent a fascinating few hours watching the English merchant-banking classes at play.

It was a truly glorious evening, with a fresh breeze and a cloudless sky. The tide was nearly full when we arrived, and the Staithe, which until then had been mostly slumbering in the sun, had begun to swarm with seafaring (or at any rate dinghy-sailing) life. It was mainly families and kids, wheeling dinghies down to the water, setting up masts and sails, chattering and shouting (and sometimes bickering) before pushing off for an evening’s sailing. Watching the kids reminded me that this is where Horatio Nelson — who was born a few miles away — learned to sail a dinghy at the age of 10.

I once took a dinghy-sailing course, so I know what a deceptively difficult art it is to harness the wind to propel such a flimsy craft in a desired direction. I was hopeless at it, which meant that I was able to view the scene with a sympathetic but marginally informed eye. Some of the solo sailors were wonderful to watch — intuitively coaxing the last ft-lb of thrust from the wind, pushing their tiny craft to the edge of capsizing, leaning far out and waiting until the last possible moment before coming about. There’s a marvellous rhythm to expert dinghy-sailing, but it’s entirely intuitive — which is why it’s probably best learned at the age of ten rather than at the age of 50 (as in my case).

To reach the sea — or even Brancaster Harbour — from Burnham Overy Staithe you have to sail up the creek. For a dinghy sailor this means not just tacking to and fro across a narrow winding stretch of water, but also zig-zagging round the larger boats that are moored to buoys in the creek. And dodging incoming boats as well. So, as the creek filled up with more and more sailors anxious to catch an evening’s sailing, the opportunities for ignominious collisions increased dramatically.

And yet, there were surprisingly few mishaps. One pair of chaps in their mid-twenties were clearly not up to the challenge posed by their gleaming new Laser dinghy, and suffered a humiliating capsize or two. Later, we saw them being towed back to base by an obliging chap in a big, old-fashioned fishing boat. A middle-aged couple — she portly and confidently bossy in a classic English upper-middle-class way; he tall and thin with a military bearing and the kind of moustache one only used to see in the Blues and Royals — bickered noisily as they endeavoured to rig out their ancient boat; eventually the husband pushed the boat out and left his wife to it. She turned out to be a modestly competent sailor and disappeared from view.

Gradually, the creek quietened as the flotilla made its way to the sea. In the distance one could see upwards of a dozen white or red triangles sailing back and forth round the harbour. In a couple of hours they would be back and the Staithe would be busy again — with tired and hungry children, and sailors who’d had the kind of enjoyment they dream about in the long winter evenings. But for us it was time for supper: we were booked in at the hotel for 8pm. As we drove away I reflected that while we might not have had the walk that we had planned this morning, we had been reminded of the value of simple pleasures: the sound a boat makes as it cuts through the water with nothing to propel it other than the wind; the satisfaction of feeling the sheet tauten as the sail fills; and the beauty of this strange, flat, unforgettable place where Nelson learned to sail.

Lunching out

On two consecutive days this week I was working in London. On one of them I followed in the footsteps of Phileas Fogg (and indeed of Trollope’s hero Phineas Finn) and lunched at the Reform Club in Pall Mall. I was there as the guest of an historian friend, an American academic who uses the club as his London base when he’s in England. I wore my Garrick tie in the hope that it might annoy the Head Porter, but of course he was alert to the trick and allowed not a flicker of contempt to cloud his features.

The Reform is a palatial building, allegedly modelled on the Farnese Palace in Rome. Unlike many clubs, it has a lovely garden, with large, stately trees under which we sat having a drink before lunch, marvelling at the existence of such a peaceful oasis right in the heart of a major city. But then being an oasis was always part of the ‘gentleman’s club’ ethos. These places were designed as (male) refuges from women and real life. In Miss Potter, the biopic of Beatrix Potter’s life, for example, it’s to the Reform that her (independently wealthy) father repairs every day instead of going to his office.

Somebody told me once that the main qualification for being elected to the club was that one accepted the principles of the 1832 Reform Act — the statute that gave political representation to the cities that had sprung up during the Industrial Revolution and extended the franchise to about one in six adult males. Not exactly a demanding requirement. It was one of the first of the Pall Mall clubs to admit women as members. On my last visit, some years ago, I looked at the ‘new members’ list as I was going in and discovered that Mrs Stella Rimington, then the boss of MI5, had just been elected. When researching a New Statesman profile in 1972, I sought an interview with Lord Balogh, who had been Harold Wilson’s Economic Adviser in the 1960s. Balogh insisted on the interview being conducted in the Reform, but omitted to offer any refreshment.

The Reform is also famous for a recipe — Lamb Cutlets Reform.

We had lamb, needless to say. And as I munched contentedly I remembered a line from P.G. Wodehouse. “To attract attention in the dining room of the Senior Conservative Club between the hours of one and two-thirty”, he wrote in Something Fresh, “you have to be a mutton-chop, not an Earl”.

General McChrystal: history repeats itself

Well, well. So the top US General in Afghanistan has been summoned to Washington, where his fate hangs in the balance. He should, of course, be fired by Obama. According to an article in Rolling Stone, it seems that McChrystal and his aides spoke critically of nearly every member of the president’s national security team, saying Obama appeared “uncomfortable and intimidated” during his first meeting with the general, and dismissing Vice President Joe Biden as “Bite Me.” Big mistake, as Fabio Capello might say.

For a long time now, the US president that Obama has most reminded me of is Harry Truman (IMHO the most under-rated president of modern times). He was also faced with an insubordinate general, Douglas MacArthur, and on April 11, 1951 fired him.

“With deep regret [said the White House statement] I have concluded that General of the Army Douglas MacArthur is unable to give his wholehearted support to the policies of the United States Government and of the United Nations in matters pertaining to his official duties. In view of the specific responsibilities imposed upon me by the Constitution of the United States and the added responsibility which has been entrusted to me by the United Nations, I have decided that I must make a change of command in the Far East. I have, therefore, relieved General MacArthur of his commands and have designated Lt. Gen. Matthew B. Ridgway as his successor.

Full and vigorous debate on matters of national policy is a vital element in the constitutional system of our free democracy. It is fundamental, however, that military commanders must be governed by the policies and directives issued to them in the manner provided by our laws and Constitution. In time of crisis, this consideration is particularly compelling.”

Later, in an article in Time magazine, Truman wrote:

“I fired him because he wouldn’t respect the authority of the President. I didn’t fire him because he was a dumb son of a bitch, although he was, but that’s not against the law for generals. If it was, half to three-quarters of them would be in jail.”

Maybe it’s something about generals with “Mc” (or “Mac”) in their names?

Pain: illiteracy posing as cant

As I write, Westminster reporters are wittering mindlessly about the Chancellor’s emergency budget. All the talk is about “pain”, how it’s going to be inflicted and upon whom, and what the reactions to this ‘pain’ will be.

This is not just cant; it’s also illiterate. The Web version of the Encyclopedia Britannica defines pain as:

“A complex experience consisting of a physiological (bodily) response to a noxious stimulus followed by an affective (emotional) response to that event. Pain is a warning mechanism that helps to protect an organism by influencing it to withdraw from harmful stimuli. It is primarily associated with injury or the threat of injury, to bodily tissues”.

The Chancellor may have lots of powers. But the infliction of pain isn’t one of them.

Shattered illusions

Well, one shattered illusion anyway. George Orwell is one of my heroes, but even his biggest fans have to admit that he could be a bit dour. So the jibe that “he could not blow his nose without moralizing on conditions in the handkerchief industry” has always made me laugh. Until today, I had always believed that it was made by Evelyn Waugh. But in his collection of essays, Common Reading: Critics, Historians, Publics, the cultural historian Stefan Collini attributes it to Cyril Connolly. Sigh: another illusion shattered.

Updike at work

If, like me, you’re fascinated by the process of writing, and how writers work, then you will find this lovely interactive feature by the NYT fascinating. It takes a fragment of Rabbit at Rest and traces its evolution from handwritten ms to typed draft to typescript. Best thing I’ve seen today.

Abundance

Strange to think that this poppy seed-pod contains enough seeds to sow hundreds — if not thousands — more of the same. And that the necessary DNA is encoded in each.

Flickr version here.

The wisdom of ages

Today’s Observer has my “Everything you need to know…” piece which encapsulates some of the stuff in the book I’ve been working on. I particularly like one of the comments:

This article reads as if it is written by an 80 year old for other 80 year olds. Something to talk about at bingo.

LATER: Generous comment from Cory Doctorow in BoingBoing:

John Naughton’s feature in today’s Observer, “The internet: Everything you ever need to know,” is a fantastic read and a marvel of economy, managing to pack nine very big ideas into 15 minutes’ reading. This is the kind of primer you want to slide under your boss’s door.